Harley compensator removal


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Get Full Details. Orders of any amount can be returned for free by mail or in store, for any reason, within 45 days of the shipping date. Part Number A. This premium compensator has been engineered with heavier springs and increased travel to support the high torque output associated with high compression race and large displacement engines.

Bike not listed? Select your year and model to see all the parts that fit your bike. All rights reserved. We do not currently ship to Hawaii, P. Gift cards and taxes do not qualify toward the minimum purchase requirement. View all bikes this part fits. Add to Cart. Add to Wish List. Live Chat. Select SELECT. Model Model. EPA compliant for sale and use on all applicable vehicles, including those that are pollution controlled.

Screamin' Eagle Performance products are intended for the experienced rider only. Big Twin Compensator is rated 4. Both were bought second hand with some When I got my first, I immediately reacted to the grinding sound at start but the dealer assured me this was quite normal on this model. With experience from previous Harleys, I didn't believe him but drove away knowing I had one year warranty on the bike.There are few reasons to remove the inner primary cover on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle.

However, the most common are: to install a wide drive belt and offset pulley, to remove the inner primary cover bearing or to replace both primary covers with flashier chrome ones. Removing the inner primary cover is an advanced Harley project. Do not try this at home unless you are completely confident that you can take your motorcycle apart and put it back together again.

Raise your motorcycle completely off the ground with a motorcycle jack and ensure that the motorcycle is stable.

Locate the primary fluid drain plug in the lower bottom of the outer primary cover. Put a drain pan under the plug, remove the plug with an Allen wrench and drain the primary fluid.

Remove the gear shift lever and left foot rest with a socket or box wrench. Remove all five outer primary cover screws with a hex wrench.

Use a clutch spring compressor to compress the clutch springs. Remove the nuts on the clutch studs with a wrench. Remove the clutch pressure plate, springs and releasing disc.

Inspect the friction plates for dark streaks, which usually indicate warped clutch plates. Remove the friction plates and clutch plates. Locate the chain tensioner and remove the tensioner retaining bolt with a wrench. Remove the chain tensioner by hand. Locate the oiler pipe. Some Harleys do not have an oiler pipe. If yours does, remove it. Remove the compensator nut with a breaker bar and socket.

It may be helpful to extend the leverage of the breaker bar with a 3-foot length of steel pipe. Remove the starter solenoid and motor. In some Harleys, you may have to remove the exhaust pipes as well. Locate and remove the clutch hub nut with a wrench. Remove the primary chain, compensator, front sprocket and clutch hub.

harley compensator removal

Remove any oil lines from the rear primary and remove any remaining oil lines with a pair of pliers and shop rags. The oil lines will be covered in motor oil. Use a wrench to remove the grounding line attached to one of the two retaining bolts near the gear box.

Use a wrench to remove the six inner primary retaining bolts on both side of the inner primary. Remove the inner primary. Sometimes the primary may be removed after tapping it gently with a rubber mallet. It is accepted shop practice to use a 2-by-4 and a hammer to remove the inner primary cover if necessary. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.

To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Step 1 Raise your motorcycle completely off the ground with a motorcycle jack and ensure that the motorcycle is stable. Step 2 Locate the primary fluid drain plug in the lower bottom of the outer primary cover. Step 3 Remove the gear shift lever and left foot rest with a socket or box wrench. Step 4 Use a clutch spring compressor to compress the clutch springs. Step 5 Locate the chain tensioner and remove the tensioner retaining bolt with a wrench.

Step 6 Use a socket extension and socket to brace the engine and clutch sprockets.As usual, Fix My Hog suggests that a factory service manual is also available for reference for the Harley compensator sprocket removal. Bob begins by draining the primary drive oil and removing the outer primary cover. You can use a baking tray, or something similar to catch the residual oil that will drip from the inner primary and the drive assembly.

It should take at least 2 or 3 minutes of evenly applied heat to soften the Loctite. Without the use of this heat, the Loctite may break into pieces as the bolt is being removed. These broken fragments of Loctite can be very abrasive and can damage bolt and shaft threads. This, absolutely, must be avoided, so take your time when heating this Harley compensator sprocket bolt when performing Harley compensator sprocket removal. Retract the primary chain adjuster shoe and retain it with a long tie wrap, or two smaller tie wraps.

Next, you will need a drive locker to keep the drive from turning as you break the Harley compensator sprocket bolt free. If a drive locker is unavailable, you can use a piece of flat metal stock, cut to the appropriate length, in order to hold the drive.

We often use a tire spoon that has been cut to match the length of the factory tool. Now, with the drive locked and the Harley compensator sprocket bolt heated, use a breaker bar with a T torx to break loose and remove the compensator bolt. After the bolt is removed, remove the rest of the compensator assembly.

None of the assembly will be reused. The next important step is cleaning the sprocket shaft threads. If a tap is used, be extremely careful that you are only removing residual Loctite and not damaging any of the shaft threads in any way.

Clean out loosened Loctite with brake clean and compressed air. With the stock compensating drive assembly removed and the sprocket shaft cleaned and prepped, we are ready to begin assembly of our Baker compensator assembly upgrade. Bob bleeds for us. Well, he bleeds the front brakes on this custom caliper set up. He notes the two bleeder set up and that we should remove old fluid before replacing with new.There is a verified problem with Harley-Davidson Big Twin compensating sprockets.

The compensating sprocket buffers torque from the engine and the limitations with this part may be most obvious in newer, big bore engines. A part that was adequate in an cubic-inch engine may not be adequate in a cubic-inch engine. Harley has not issued a recall. The company is, however, selling a reinforced compensator replacement kit, part number The symptoms of a bad compensator are a loud clang at start up, trouble shifting into first or neutral and a sound like gravel in the front of the primary around RPM.

But, the only way to know for sure that you have this problem is to pull the primary cover off and look. Remove the primary chain case drain plug on the bottom of the chain case under the clutch cover with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

Drain the primary chain case fluid into a pan. Inspect the magnetic end of the drain plug for bits of metal. Dredge the drained primary chain case fluid with a magnetic probe. Inspect the probe for bits of metal. Remove the five clutch cover screws with an Allen or Torx socket depending on the year and model of your bike and a socket wrench.

Remove the round clutch cover and gasket. Discard the gasket. Remove all four screws in the oval inspection cover with an Allen or Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the cover and gasket. Remove all 12 primary chain case cover screws with an Allen or Torx socket and a socket wrench.

Remove the primary chain case cover. Remove and discard the primary chain case cover gasket and both primary chain case tower gaskets inside the primary.

Inspect the compensating sprocket, the clutch, the chain and the chain tensioner for obvious defects or wear. Heat the compensating sprocket nut with a heat gun to loosen the nut. Remove the compensating sprocket nut with a hex socket and a breaker bar. Remove the spacer, sprocket cover, sliding cam and compensating sprocket.

How to Diagnose a Harley Compensator

Clean and inspect all components for wear. Replace or repair as needed. Inspect the shaft extension for wear before beginning reassembly. Apply thread locker to the threads on the engine sprocket shaft. Apply engine oil to the underside of the sprocket nut. Replace the compensating sprocket, sliding cam, sprocket cover and spacer.Get Full Details.

Screamin eagle compensator sprocket install

Orders of any amount can be returned for free by mail or in store, for any reason, within 45 days of the shipping date. Part Number This premium compensator has been engineered with heavier springs and increased travel to support the high torque output associated with high compression race and large displacement engines.

Does not fit Trike. Bike not listed? Select your year and model to see all the parts that fit your bike. All rights reserved. We do not currently ship to Hawaii, P. Gift cards and taxes do not qualify toward the minimum purchase requirement. View all bikes this part fits.

Add to Cart. Add to Wish List.

Harley Compensator Upgrade

Live Chat. Select SELECT. Model Model. All engine-related performance parts identified with the crossed flags symbol are intended for racing applications only and are not legal for sale or use in California on pollution-controlled vehicles. Alterations of emission-related components constitutes tampering under the U.

EPA guidelines and can lead to substantial fines and penalties. Big Twin Compensator is rated 4. The increased compression and starting torque was murder on the OE compensator. Starting would "catch" when the engine was completely heat soaked and not turn over at all, almost like the starter was hitting a brick wall in the primary.

Bagging noise gone, starting issues gone, and no drive chain lurch. You never realize how bad things are until they are fixed. Love it! No big deal accept Harley can't sell the glue kit. I have no idea why!?! That's OK JB Weld engine case epoxy did the trick. Obviously if you want to keep a warranty or guarantee that that plastic piece won't come off than a certified dealer has to install it. Trust me though Just make sure to prep the surfaces well Overall seems like a great part The compensator seems to be the weak link in the Harley v-twin engine and this ultra tough redesigned piece seems to have fixed that particular problem.

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Continue as guest Sign in. Yes, keep me signed in No, sign me out.Located just inside the primary chaincase of your Harley-Davidson, the compensating sprocket is responsible for minimizing the jerkiness of your motorcycle at slower speeds. It works in conjunction with the clutch assembly and the primary chain to ensure the motorcycle operates smoothly. Replacement of the compensating sprocket is rare, as it is only necessary if the teeth wear down.

You can identify the worn teeth by a loud noise in the outer primary. Remove the seat by removing the bolt and nut located at the rear of the seat. This is the bolt that connects the seat to the rear fender.

Remove the magnetic drain plug with a wrench from underneath the outer primary chaincase located on the left-hand side of the motorcycle.

harley compensator removal

Drain the fluid into a drain pan. Remove both the driver and passenger floorboards from the left-hand side of the motorcycle. The floorboards connect to the motorcycle by a socket screw with a lockwasher and flat washer. Remove both the upper and lower hex bolts with a wrench and socket. Remove the shift rod from the shift lever using a wrench. Remove the socket head screws from the toe and heel shifter levers with a standard screwdriver. Remove the outer primary chaincase by removing the 10 Allen-head screws with an Allen wrench.

Once removed, set the outer chaincase aside. Loosen the bolt holding the chain tensioner assembly with a standard wrench. Lower the chain tensioner assembly so that the adjuster shoe lays flat on the inner primary chaincase.

Remove the retaining ring from the clutch hub with retaining ring pliers. Also remove the pull release plate locknut and adjuster screw with a wrench.

Insert a primary drive locking tool into the teeth of the compensating sprocket. Turn the sprocket nut counterclockwise using a breaker bar and socket. Turn the nut until it becomes loose. Insert the primary drive locking tool into the teeth of the clutch sprocket. Turn the clutch hub mainshaft clockwise using a breaker bar and socket. Remove the sprocket cover and sliding cam by hand once you remove the compensating and clutch sprocket nuts.

Remove the clutch, compensating sprocketprimary chain and shaft extension by hand. They will remain a single assembly once removed. Labels: Harley Davidson.

Newer Post Older Post Home.As usual, Fix My Hog suggests that a factory service manual is also available for reference for the Harley compensator sprocket removal.

Video-Harley Inner & Outer Primary Housing, Clutch, Compensator Sprocket, Chain Removal-DIY

Bob begins by draining the primary drive oil and removing the outer primary cover. You can use a baking tray, or something similar to catch the residual oil that will drip from the inner primary and the drive assembly. It should take at least 2 or 3 minutes of evenly applied heat to soften the Loctite.

Without the use of this heat, the Loctite may break into pieces as the bolt is being removed. These broken fragments of Loctite can be very abrasive and can damage bolt and shaft threads. This, absolutely, must be avoided, so take your time when heating this Harley compensator sprocket bolt when performing Harley compensator sprocket removal. Retract the primary chain adjuster shoe and retain it with a long tie wrap, or two smaller tie wraps.

Next, you will need a drive locker to keep the drive from turning as you break the Harley compensator sprocket bolt free. If a drive locker is unavailable, you can use a piece of flat metal stock, cut to the appropriate length, in order to hold the drive.

We often use a tire spoon that has been cut to match the length of the factory tool. Now, with the drive locked and the Harley compensator sprocket bolt heated, use a breaker bar with a T torx to break loose and remove the compensator bolt. After the bolt is removed, remove the rest of the compensator assembly. None of the assembly will be reused.

The next important step is cleaning the sprocket shaft threads. If a tap is used, be extremely careful that you are only removing residual Loctite and not damaging any of the shaft threads in any way. Clean out loosened Loctite with brake clean and compressed air.

With the stock compensating drive assembly removed and the sprocket shaft cleaned and prepped, we are ready to begin assembly of our Baker compensator assembly upgrade. Make sure the lights are working properly, the horn makes noise, turn signals are operational, and all grommets are in place.

Then you should check the throttle, add oil and fill the tires to the correct level. Once your finished with the service, get out and ride!

You will need to do the reverse during installation. Tech review of the Harley Davidson charging system. Everyone is at your house and ready to ride. Bob demonstrates the best way to do this using a MityVac and a gasoline can.

Once you follow his instructions and drain the fuel tank filter, cleaning any dirty parts and tightening any loose bolts, you can refill the tank with fuel and your bike should be good to go. Sportster Maintenance can also bring comfort.

Our experts also walk through proper belt services and adjustment on Harley rear shocks. Next Video: Belt Deflection. Remember me.

harley compensator removal

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